The Baby The Old Man And The Guy On Mushrooms The Wine Bars Of Venice

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The Wine Bars Of Venice

In the mysterious adriatic city of Venice, the citizens perform a strange little ritual called the “giro di ombre” (wheel of the shadow). It is not a custom for all Venetians, but mostly men and often older men. However, that being said, you don’t have to be a man to participate. You don’t have to be old. Anyone can do it, and in fact young Venetians (including women) are now addicted to this thing called giro. Most of the time, you will see groups of men, three, five, or six, maybe more, one can do it alone. I usually go alone. Don’t worry about being alone. You will make many friends along the way, because it is part of the “giro,” making new friends, eating, eating, having fun, having a good time.

What is this giro di ombre?

The Giro di ombre is a wonderful little tradition that began around Venice’s Rialto market 600 years ago. The merchants of the rialto market, wanting to take a break from carrying their goods, rush to the nearby wine cellars to get out of the sun and have a little wine accompanied by small pieces of food (cichetti) to go with them. wine. When these merchants went to a wine cellar, called bacari, which translates to “house of bachus,” they said they were looking for “ombra,” the Latin word for shadow. They wanted to get out of the sun and into the shade. Later, the wine glass in Venice became known as “ombra.” So if one day you have the chance to go to one of the small wine bars of Venice (bacaro), you can go to the bar, order “un ombra rosso” if you want a glass of house red, or “un ombra bianco” if you prefer. a glass of white wine. It’s as simple as that, and you’re speaking in the wonderful venetian language. Like a true venetian!

When you walk into a wine bar in Venice, you will no doubt see a spectacular display of food displayed on a plate in the living room. These dishes are “cichetti,” tidbits of prepared food that come in small portions so you can try three, four, five, maybe six or more. Cichetti usually costs $1.00-$2.50. They are designed to be very affordable and in small portions so that people can order several different items.

What is cichetti, you ask? As the Venetian language means, cichetti are small pieces of food. There are many types of things like cichetti. The most traditional and popular cichetti are; shrimp or squid meat, grilled or fried, cotechino, musetto (pork sausage, “yum!”), nerve, octopus salad, bacala mantecato (whipped salt), and sarde en saour (sardines marinated with vinegar and onion) . You can also find small sandwiches (panini & tramezzini) that are filled with all kinds of delicious dishes such as lobster salad, speck (smoked prosciutto), shrimp, ham and mushroom and tomato, and much more. These sandwiches are also part of the cichetti and cost around $1.00 or two.

You might think of cihetti as Spanish tapas. “Yes,” exactly. I can add that the Venetians started this tradition a few centuries before the Spanish did, the “cichetti” of Venice alone never touched the Italian peninsula as tapas did in Spain where tapas and tapas bars are a way of life. .

So you go into bacaro and order ombra rosso or bianco. Check out the amazing cichetti menu and order a few items to choose from. A typical example of a particle would go like this; a few pieces of grilled squid, sarde en saor, a crostino of baccala montecato (whipped salt), and maybe a few fried balls. “Bon apetito!” All this should not cost you more than seven or eight dollars. In the happy days before the euro, ombra and say four pieces of cichetti would cost you about $4.50, these days it would be almost double that. Unfortunately, that’s life. Things change, even if it’s a little, it’s still great.

So you just had your first experience in venetian wine. What next? Go see another one for sure! Ask one of the locals for a recommendation or mention one on your list. If you have them.

Aaa, you are on the second bacaro. Why not try one of Venice’s most famous aperitifs? It’s a “spritz”. A spritz is simply a sparkling white wine or aperol with soda and a twist of lemon. Quite refreshing. Very Venetian. For those of you who love prosecco, you’ll be happy to know that Venice is the “prosecco capital of the world” and you can order one in every bacaro. Save the bellinis for harry’s bar, and if you do, save your money too, because this time, a bellini at the ultra chic Harry’s bar will cost you $15 US Dollars. It’s delicious, but it goes down like water.

Add the prosecco. Some good dishes to go with your blowout, would be a couple of lobster tramezzini or one shrimp and one lobster, all go well with a glass of white local prosecco.

In addition to delicious food and beautiful Italian wines, you will find the best places in the Venetian wine bars. You will meet and interact with locals and people who come to Venice from all over the world. Bacaro from Venetian, which translates as house of bacchus, bacchus, the Roman god of wine.

Go to venice, immerse yourself in its many bacari (bacaro is one, the plural of bacari) and you are sure to be immersed in true bacchanalia style.

Bacari (for Venetian wines):

Al volto: located on calli cavalli, San Marco

An old Bacaro, serving good cheap local wine, local cihetti, amazing pasta, risotto, and fresh seafood from the rialto market.

Alla vedova: cannaregio 3912, ramo ca’d’oro

Nestled in a small alley off the strada nuova, alla vedova is the authors’ choice as one of the best bacaros in Venice. Alla vedova has a beautiful bacaro look and style, she offers the best cichetti in the living room, which is always full of giro de ombre lovers. This bar gets very crowded at times and you have to negotiate a spot at the bar to get the delicious baccala and the best fried balls in town. While enjoying the bar while watching the diners sitting at the table in the small beautiful dining room, you may have the desire to sit down to eat a delicious meal with pasta, risotto, or calves liver venenziana. Do it!

All’arco, san palo 436, calle dell’occhialer

This small wine cellar (14′ x 8′) is one of the most traditional in Venice. Most of the time you only find locals, but they like to see the occasional visitor. They will welcome you with open arms, as they did to me when I came across this little house on my first “giro de ombar”. You’ll find very old cichetti that many places don’t make anymore, such as sinew (vein), tetina (beef breast), rumegal, and other interesting things like musetto (pork nose sausage). These guys enjoy turning novices into real traders. The neighborhood is great, because it facilitates interaction between you and the community which is very good in this wonderful “gem”.

Do mori, san palo 429, calle dei do mori

You can see do mori because it is one of the wineries in Venice. However, you might be a little disappointed. I was, as the owners are cold and unfriendly. Their coolness permeates the place, which is a shame as this place could be amazing if the owners didn’t have the “dead fish” personality that hangs around the rialto market. “I’m sorry fish, I didn’t mean to insult you.” “Get my bearings?”

Al paradiso perduto, at fondamenta miscordia in Cannaregio

You know when you drive past places you’ve never been before and go to have the best time imaginable? This is what happened to me when I was walking around Venice one Sunday afternoon in April 2001. As I walked I realized that paradise was my place; cool, old, and lots of character. The place was hopping with a very hip looking crowd. I sat down for a nice lunch of antipasto misto and adriatic sole. While I was in the middle of my meal, I was surprised when a jazz band was set up on the fondumenta outside the restaurant. There was a bass player, a guitar player, a trumpet player, and a piano player who rolled his “big boy” up to the stage. The group was special.

What a combination, Venice on a beautiful Sunday afternoon sitting on paradiso perduto, drinking local wine, eating well-prepared adriatic soglio and listening to the pleasant sounds of a small jazz band playing by the canal. “Who can add?” “Not me.”

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