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Who Moved My Kimchi Smell?
Kimchi is not only one of the most important Korean dishes that is also used in Korean stews and main entrees, but many, many of us love it and it is one of a kind center! I like my kimchi with fried rice, and yes, the smell of fried kimchi is half the treat. I can’t imagine preparing and then staring at a dish of kimchi fried rice that gives NO kimchi smell. What kind of culinary nightmare is this?
Well, the apparent nightmare, much like your favorite movie without sound, with or without color, or a cup of joe in the morning void of aromatic coffee, is now a dream or nightmare come true depending on how you prefer your kimchi.
The side dish that has been served for hundreds of years is, for most of us kimchi lovers, perfect with its pungent smell and even has its own national event called Kimjang. In preparation for the coldest months of the year, the entire Korean nation participates in the collection of ingredients, making, and storing Kimchi for Um-dong (the coldest 3 or 4 months of winter). This is one of the most important annual events. Housewives, friends, family, and neighbors everywhere. In years past, every fall, traditionally each family helped each other out by making Kimchi for the winter ahead – complete with its wonderful fermented smell I might add.
The annual event strengthens the bonds between families and neighbors perpetuating the spirit of “Pumasi” – The spirit of helping each other.
This tradition has been lost in some areas due to cultural modernization, busier schedules, the availability of ready-to-eat Kimchi in local supermarkets, and the revolutionary Kimchi refrigerator that extends freshness using lower temperatures.
Now, 56-year-old Kim Soon-ja (who was named the First Master of Kimchi by South Korea’s Ministry of Food in 2007) has created a Kimchi that has no smell. He has run his own factory since 1986 and now holds a patent on the odorless kimchi. His creation is a new type of pickled cabbage that does not smell even after adding water. 
As selfish as this may seem, I am not at all interested in the reaction from foreign palettes as much as what I can think of it. I understand Korea’s struggle to globalization of Korean food and Kimchi in particular but I love the smell of Kimchi followed by the taste of the heavenly gift of pickled pickles.
Seoul-based Corea Image Communication Institute, surveyed that the unique center of Korean food is the biggest obstacle to culinary globalization. True, the fermentation of cabbage, garlic, red pepper flakes, anchovies, fish sauce, and ginger greatly improves your chances of having kimchi breath, but that’s what mint breath brushes are for!
Also consider that if these kimchi without odor brings itself to Korean cuisine, in general, closer to the culinary globalization wants, what should we do with the 3,000 year old recipes and approach kimchi when asked about it? What do we say to people who ask for REAL kimchi at restaurants? Could we provide separate seats as we did with the smokers? I’m a bit extreme of course, but I guess we can give a pseudo kimchi for those who don’t want to risk being around the center of a healthy fermented food. For the seller, it could even be an extra source of income and probably sell for more than the real thing. One of the few conditions for ridiculous pricing is the novelty factor and a kimchi without odor will certainly have that. People are so funny you don’t know.
When the smell is removed, what does the odorless kimchi taste like? Well, I personally have not had the opportunity to try it, but I am very doubtful and pessimistic that I would like it as much as I do naturally fermented and freshly served kimchi with all its wonderful smell. However, I will remain open-minded enough to say that I have not yet tried it and until I do, will have to hold my tongue just a little and, effortlessly, nose on the problem – remember it is odorless.
The creator of the unscented ‘just add water’ kimchi brand says it best when he says, “When it is soaked in either hot or cold water for a few minutes, it will become just like ordinary kimchi,” says Kim, the owner of Han. Sung Food in suburban Seoul.
It looked and reminded me of the sterilized and irradiated kimchi developed for space travel when astronaut Ko San entered orbit in April ’08.
I’m sure the creator of the unscented brainchild has nothing but nice things to say about Kimchi but I want the pungent smell as part of the experience for many of us. For kimchi mongers like myself, this unscented variety would be like smoking barbecue without a trace of smokey beef in the air or a pastry kitchen with no sweet effect on the nose.
A food science professor at Kyung Hee University said “Some people who like freshness might not like “dry kimchi”. The dish, an acquired taste, is not the same without its aroma, Cho said.
I would also be concerned about missing any of the health benefits of traditional kimchi versus its unflavored counterpart. I love the smell of my kimchi as it is used and I indulge myself. Despite its lack of natural smell, I can’t help but wonder if the health benefits of unscented kimchi remain intact to include anti-toxins, anti-allergens, and anti-biotics.
From Wikipedia: (About REAL Kimchi)
“Health magazine named kimchi among the top five “World’s Healthiest Foods” for being rich in vitamins, aiding digestion, and even possibly reducing the growth of cancer.
A study at Seoul National University claimed that chickens infected with the H5N1 virus, also known as bird flu, recovered after eating food containing the same bacteria found in kimchi. However, the veracity of these results has been questioned due to the small sample size of only a handful of chickens and the fact that no subsequent research supports the claims. During the 2003 SARS outbreak in Asia, many people even believed that kimchi could protect against infection, although there was no scientific evidence to support this belief.
However, in May 2009, the Korea Food Research Institute, Korea’s state food research organization, said a larger study of 200 chickens was conducted, supporting the effectiveness of kimchi in fighting bird flu. 
Among the real benefits of Kimchi for health are improving intestinal maintenance, omega-6 fatty acids, fighting unhealthy cholesterol levels, high levels of garlic contribute high levels of Allicin – a natural source of selenium and artery cleaner, and its high content of pepper and vitamin C . content. 
I suppose, my future dining experiences may require a call ahead to specify and ensure I’m served traditional stinky kimchi following my preference between the city’s finest tap or mineral water. So if a portion of this odorless kimchi makes it to my table, it will be for my taste only half the experience.
That would definitely be a table and restaurant I should avoid. I mean Kimchi was traditionally served fresh or slightly aged with all its natural flavors and aromas fermented as it was as early as 2600-3000 years ago. It’s hard to break with an old habit you know.
I have to admit that opening a jar of kimchi will release a strong and lingering smell that most would find very noticeable and perhaps offensive. If I’m traveling and can’t go where it’s served as a standard, if I have to eat in a hotel room or someone else’s house, I’d be more than happy to go into the usual hole in the region. I mean, when you’re in Rome, you don’t bust out your tupperware full of kimchi. And even then, I know that in many parts of the world, I can find enough kimchi locally to meet my needs. This is not like asking $ 750 a pound of white truffles while on Amazon’s expedition.
I contacted Kim Soon-ja for a sample of her Kimchi as I would like to review her products on my site Love That Kimchi.com. Just as I sampled Granny Choe’s traditional kimchi (complete with the lovely smell of fermented cabbage and aged ingredients) and now recommend it on my site, I would offer a completely fair and unbiased review of unscented kimchi as well. the two traditionalists and these. who stayed away from this gem because of the smell. Although I have my strong preferences, I can offer a fair review on the merits of taste alone. This despite a strong connection between the sense of smell and taste – at least mine. It could be like judging a sizzlin’ steak, before the eyes, with no beefy smell but it would be the taste, after all, that is being judged. I had to do worse.
Until then, with all due respect, and I mean it, I believe that ‘scentless kimchi’ will be tolerated among true lovers of Korean cuisine as much as zirconia diamonds are among collectors of precious stones.
In the meantime, I’m grateful to stick with anywhere acceptable to return to my smelly kimchi.
I enjoy every perfectly balanced fermented flavor of cabbage and ingredients that make this fragrant dish one of the five healthiest foods in the world according to Health Magazine. But then again, what do these shmuks really know about this stuff?
Finally, for those who do not want to settle, remember, if it looks like kimchi, SMELLS like kimchi, is served like kimchi, then it is probably REAL kimchi.
In the meantime, don’t make me wonder who moved my kimchi center.
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